For me, those arrangements finished here, in a small cabin of the aptly named Microspirit, with me trying to tie on a thu. According to custom, I was supposed to wrap eight feet of blue cloth in such a way that it covered the right places without making me look like a prom-night carnation. I failed in both respects. Flamboyant hoops of extra material draped off my hips, yet I could feel cool air in increasingly funny places. Unsure what else to do, I crammed the extra bits inside an inner loop - sufficiently loosening the outer loop to send the cottony contraption sliding down to my ankles.